By Jasmine Laws
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Andermatt is a picturesque ski resort that provides a sublime ski experience for any type of skier. Separating the resort into a ‘ying and yang’ aesthetic, the north-side is more shaded, and has tougher slopes to ski on, giving the more experienced skiers a challenge, while the south-facing, sunny-side of the mountain has endless, calming slopes for the more contented, relaxed skiers. The harmonious juxtaposition of thrill and peace enable this resort to accommodate for every level of skier, and even free-skiers, as the off-piste routes are certainly limitless. To complete this wonderful holiday for the luxury traveller, Andermatt’s après-ski setting is one to remember: it is known as a centre for après, and even takes its après-ski to the local trains.

Andermatt was not always the thriving ski town it is today: it used to be simply one of the traffic hotspots of Europe, and in 1885 it was garrison town for the Swiss Army. Despite some ski lifts up the mountain, few people came to Andermatt to ski, as the landscape and tranquillity was greatly impacted by the barracks full of soldiers, and their firing range. But, after the influence of the destination developer Samih Sawiris, Andermatt evolved into the beautiful mountain resort it is today, with new lifts built to connect Oberalp, Dieni, Sedrun and Gemsstock together into one elite ski resort. Andermatt is now one of the prettiest of the Swiss Alps resorts, and is a hotspot for the affluent and luxury ski traveller.

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"it is the ultimate spot for an idyllic photo and a breath-taking place to spend the ski season"

With 70km of slopes, and some of the 600 peaks almost as high as 3000m, there is plenty of skiing to be enjoyed in Andermatt. This ski resort has 18km of 26% inclined blue runs, 40km of 57% inclined and 12km of 17% steep black runs, and is connected with the Oberalp Pass and Dieni near Sedrun, to form a winter sports area linked by a 10-person cable car. The Oberalp Pass is covered in snow until as late as June, to allow ‘ski-aholics’ to ski until the summer. Skiing through this pass you can even watch the Glacier Express going between St. Moritz and Zermatt, which almost feels like you’ve stepped into the movie The Polar Express, to make you feel wonderfully festive, even in the springtime. This tranquil skiing ambiance on the easier blue runs, can be found as a route from Andermatt through to the Lutersee-Flyer chairlift and in the Sedrun side of the region. This route will take skiers through slightly more intermediate level slopes, but it won’t create any stress a pit-stop at Alpsu bar and a “heise schokolade mit rum” won’t solve.

The Oberalp and Sedrun side of the Andermatt resort is very much the sunny-side of the resort, so becomes much more of a relaxing, holiday-worthy skiing experience, whereas on the other side of the Andermatt it is more shaded and dakrer, and this is where the braver of skiers dare to go. This side is the Gemsstock resort, where the slopes are perfect for more confident of skiers: the routes are only red, with 45% incline, and black, with 55% incline, and there is a plethora of off-piste opportunity for free-skiers. With mountains up to 2961m this resort is a hotspot for dare-devil skiers looking for a thrilling, slightly more challenging skiing experience. The Gemsstock side of the pistes, as it is more shaded and slightly colder, does mean that the snow is better for longer, so while the slopes may be steeper, the quality of the snow makes it a great place to venture when the sunny-side snow starts to melt on warmer days into something you’d expect to find coloured blue in a cinema slushie.

In the Andermatt region, you are never short of fantastic places to dine or have a drink, both on and off the mountain. One of the mountainside favourites is the rustic Vinothek 1620, built from warming wood and cobbled rocks to generate the aesthetic of a cosy, luxurious chalet. With wine glasses hanging on the bar’s ceiling and cocktails in lovely martini glasses, Vinothek 1620 feels like a chic bar, but in the comfort of a snug log-cabin. The menu is both appetising and delicious, with the food all homemade using only 100% natural, local produce. The soft, light breads are baked every morning fresh from the oven, along with the freshly baked oven pizzas that made the restaurant smell wonderfully of freshly baked pizza and bread. For a more filling meal, to fuel your afternoon of skiing, the steak and ale pie, or feta and spinach for vegetarians, are among the favourite dishes, as the rich, warming filling covered in a light fluffy pastry feels like a comforting home-cooked meal, to energise you to get back out on the slopes.

A classic favourite of the restaurants off the mountain is Biselli, situated on Piazza Gottardo in Andermatt. The attentive and welcoming staff ensure all guests feel relaxed upon entrance and for the duration of their meal. The open kitchen allows the guests to witness the skill and expertise that goes into the cooking of their meals, and every dietary requirement is catered for with the same high standard of dining. From beautifully thin, handmade pizzas to warming local soups to intricately presented main dishes like the tender steak with roasted tomatoes, fig, and basil leaves and jus on a thin piece of pastry: the food is truly exquisite. All of this can be enjoyed with a cocktail like a pungent, citrus Aperol Spritz in hand, or a rich cup of coffee. Andermatt ensures that every guest is re-fuelled after their skiing with only the greatest of Swiss ingredients prepared in a deliciously elegant manner.

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"Skiing through this pass you can even watch the Glacier Express going between St. Moritz and Zermatt, which almost feels like you’ve stepped into the movie The Polar Express, to make you feel wonderfully festive, even in the springtime"

Once the warming sun sets on Andermatt valley, the fun truly starts for party-goer travellers: the apres-ski does not disappoint. A highlight of the Apres-ski setting in Andermatt is undoubtedly the Apres Ski Bar Train. On the train, you can enjoy a drink with an ever-changing view of the Swiss Alps’ ceaseless beauty, in the warmth of the train, while you can stand at the bar, or relax in the lounge in the ambiance of the live DJ. The route of the train goes from Disentis to Andermatt with a stop at each end to allow you to explore either village, and possibly have a meal before hopping back on the train for some more drinks on your way home. The barman Viktor serves a wide range of brilliant drinks, like the Ski Arena beer, a local favourite for its bitter taste and powerful strength, and local culinary specialities, such as local cheeses or dried meat plates, and home-made croissants filled with a nutty fondant filling, and also the delicious walnut and honey pie.

For a more traditional apres-ski setting, the Big T Bar in Dieni, Sedrun, is a suave, chic bar that fills up quickly with affluent travellers after a day of skiing to provide a vibrant atmosphere for your evening. With LED lighting under the modern bar counter and blue and pink lighting up the walls to the ceiling, the bar’s interior design reflects the high-end experience guests receive in Big T. The Biber Bar is another great alternative, situating in the Natschen valley station in Andermatt it is a perfect place to come for a coffee with schnapps as a bliss of warmth before you head back to the slopes. Coffee to hand, Biber bar, as it is on the mountainside, has a breathtaking view across Andermatt resort, and, being on the sunny side, is an ideal place to relax under the beating rays of sunlight.

Andermatt resort is a treasure for all skiers to enjoy: a day of powder snow, or peaceful easy turns down the mountain, or off-piste power skiing or steep, fast turning down Gemsstock – there is an abundance of skiing opportunity. This fantastic variation of slopes is accompanied by the picture-perfect backdrop of the Swiss Alps, and the vibrant ambiance of the social setting and sophisticated apres-ski, make Andermatt an ideal hotspot for every affluent skier. There are truly few places as intricately beautiful as Andermatt Resort, Switzerland; it is the ultimate  breath-taking place to spend the ski season.

Jasmine Laws

Jasmine Laws, Assistant Editor of Ski Luxe, has travelled extensively as well as lived abroad. Her catalyst for storytelling was developed while living in the Middle East in Oman and Abu Dhabi and learning about new cultures, sights and experiences. Today she writes extensively, sharing her newfound explorations of exotic cultures, people and places.