By Juliet Taylor Foster
  • Copy link to share with friends

Snow and Polo. Two very contrasting ideas. Two of Reto Gaudenzi’s favourite things. Rather like Neapolitan ice cream which has polarized diners since the nineteenth century. Why ruin a mouthful of chocolate ice cream with the plummy sweetness of strawberry? Or worse still plague the delicate taste of vanilla with overpowering chocolate? However, the alchemy of consuming chocolate, vanilla and strawberry at once demonstrates these flavours in sync create a magical mouthful. The Snow Polo World Cup, St Moritz proves that founder Reto Gaudenzi was right: snow and polo can also complement each other enormously.

Honour. It’s the sole purpose of bringing six teams comprising four players and at least sixteen ponies (mainly from Argentina, because they are the best) from all over the globe to compete in the original and most prestigious snow polo event on the world stage. Due to the size of the field and the number of attendees, it is also the biggest. Since 1985, sybarite sport spectators have descended on St Moritz to watch and participate in this inconceivable winter sport and this year the event hosted its biggest audience yet, welcoming 25,000 people over three days during the last weekend in January.

snow polo

St Moritz is a millionaire’s winter playground and a shining beacon of luxury, mirrored by its lake in the eastern Swiss Alps. At 1800 metres, every Winter without fail, Lake St Moritz freezes over. Thirty to forty centimetres of ice – measured by a laser drone along with a basic ‘stick’ counterpart – is strong enough to hold the 200 x 80-metre pitch, spectators, two open-air grandstands and countless hospitality tents.

The Snow Polo World Cup is a spectator sport in every way imaginable. The all-embracing backdrop of dramatic alpine topography in the Engadin Valley, is enough to lose oneself for hours. On a clear day audiences can expect auroral blue skies shared with glistening silvery mountaintops. The bright sunshine and a glass of bubbly make the sub-freezing temperatures (around -10C) feel pleasantly warm. When it snows, wrap up in the cosy faux fur throws provided on grandstand seats or take refuge in the exceptional VIP tent whilst a blizzard passes. Whatever the weather, witness a pageantry of extravagant mountain couture as alpine fashionistas wrap up from head to toe in carefully curated attire. Expect to re-define the concept of winter accessories, this goes for pets too.

snow polo
"

"Witness a pageantry of extravagant mountain couture as alpine fashionistas wrap up from head to toe in carefully curated attire."

So how does a game played in high summer translate to sub-zero temperatures on ice? The 2.5million CHF set-up is quite remarkable. Multiple layers of snow are compacted on top of the ice by piste-grooming machines, creating a functional surface which is easy to walk, ride and play on. The ponies’ hooves also have special foam inserts around their frog to insulate them from the cold and the horseshoes themselves are fitted with metal spikes to aid traction. Aside from the setting, the obvious difference is the ball and its size. Traditional polo uses a wooden ball smaller than a tennis ball but the bright-coloured snow polo ball is much bigger and lighter. Being similar to a beachball prevents it from being embedded in the ground but will not go nearly as fast or as far. These factors bring about a different style of play, focusing on dribbling with less of the familiar whacks in field polo.

snow polo

Whether you are a polo connoisseur or a rookie fan, the booming beat of hooves on the ground invariably resonates in the solar plexus. Big clouds of snowy mist are kicked up into the air as frisky ponies carousel around a ball and trojan puffs of hot air are released from the mouths of players and horses alike. Onlookers marvel at the sheer coordination and talent required to hit a ball with a 1.3-metre mallet on a galloping horse, or even more so, hitting a nearside backhand (on the pony’s left side). Anticipate synchronised gasps, loud applause and the boom of crowd-pleasing commentary and music when a goal is scored. One chukka and you are hooked.

Between the three daily matches there is an outstanding VIP offering, located a convenient 25 metres behind the grandstand. The tent is a vast, busy hub of adult-centric activity offering gourmet food of global favourites, served by the Bardrutt’s Palace Hotel. A plate from the abundant fine cheese stand is curated by a specialist for each individual’s taste. Wash down a lifetime’s worth of caviar from expert merchants with endless glasses of Perrier Jouet. A chocolatier is on-site to make beautiful mouthfuls of heaven with an urn of the richest, viscous hot chocolate. If you have a sweet tooth, there are seldom better ways to thaw out from the cold. Choose your preferred digestif, be it an Azerbaijani herb tea whilst sat on a Bedouin cushion or a tumbler of Royal Salute scotch in the cosy cigar room. It’s hard to believe the prices for the VIP tickets with unlimited food and drink begin at just 500CHFpp (£450) for a weekday ticket, 750CHF for the weekends.

"

"Anticipate synchronised gasps, loud applause and the boom of crowd-pleasing commentary and music when a goal is scored. One chukka and you are hooked."

There is a generous selection of distinguished hotels in St Moritz’s alpine bubble of luxury. Popular choices include the imperious Bardrutt’s Palace Hotel, dominating the view of St Moritz looking up from Lake St Moritz; or the acclaimed Kulm Hotel just behind it with equally good views. But for the ultimate, seamless VIP experience, the Grand Hotel des Bains Kempinski is the front runner of the five-star hotels here. Staff here will go out of their way to make sure your transition from poolside to pitch is as effortless as possible with regular shuttles taking guests over to the lake.

snow polo

Just a ten-minute walk away from the lake, the Grand Hotel des Bains Kempinski is also a stone’s throw from the ski lift up to Corviglia, the main ski area of St Moritz. It’s essentially the only luxury hotel you can ski in and out of. Recognised for its prestige and originally built as a health retreat, the impressive spa caters for every wellness offering imaginable. Choose from Finnish saunas to cryotherapy followed by a swim in their impressive indoor pool after a day of decadence and excitement. Indulge further in a selection of five contrasting restaurants in a thoroughly opulent setting.

Although not a straightforward trip, there are many comfortable ways to get to St Moritz. Trains in Switzerland are efficient and the views are heavenly. Flying into Zurich enables you to take the famous Glacier Express train, to enjoy the most scenic parts of the Swiss Alps, passing with, gorges, viaducts and famous Swiss towns accompanied by a tour-guide’s commentary, whilst you dine. If a private jet is the preferred mode of transport, Engadin Airport is only a 10-minute drive away from St Moritz, but book your slot early as the airport is often at capacity during late Jan – Mid Feb.

snow polo st moritz

With its mesmerising location and history as the host of the second ever Winter Olympics, it’s no surprise that St Moritz hosts a wide array of unlikely winter sports besides its world-famous ski offering. From the White Turf, (three weekends of different styles of racing horses) to the International Concours of Elegance (vintage car racing), to the Skeleton World Championships, it’s where pleasure-seekers come to satiate their competitive spirit and need for the finer things. For the epicurean traveller looking for a thrilling weekend experience, the Snow Polo World Cup will not disappoint. The blending of snow and polo seasoned with luxury and mountains is a combination to be relished.

Juliet Taylor Foster

Juliet is a London-based broadcaster and travel writer and spends her time between London and Verbier where she has trained with the Warren Smith Ski Academy. She is also a big fan of ski resorts during the Summer, enjoying hiking and golf in the warmer months.