By Phoebe Nicoll
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Speeding around icy hairpin bends and squeezing through narrow mountain passes in a rare vintage sports car is enough to make any extreme car preservationist shudder. But, for the competitors of the Winter Marathon car rally, this is their adrenaline-filled mountain playground. It’s an opportunity for them to indulge in their nostalgia by restoring these classic cars and driving against the backdrop of the majestic Dolomite mountain peaks.

The dynamic father and son duo, Roberto and Andrea Vesco, have been running the event since they bought the rights in 2008. Andrea was just seven when the first Winter Marathon took place in 1989, but he was soon introduced to the sport as his father’s co-pilot at 12 years old.

Now in its 34th edition, Winter Marathon spans over 500km of the northern Italian countryside, accommodating 65 precision time trials and 12 breath-taking Dolomite passes. The main race is split disproportionately over two days: the first 90km leg acts as a warmup for the second monster 420km adventure on the second day. Competitors return each night to the picturesque town of Madonna di Campiglio, the select location unchanged from the first edition, which acts as a comfortable bookend to the days’ work of navigating hair-raising icy corners.

The first day is an aesthetic treat for both pilots and spectators, as an assortment of the most beautiful vintage sports cars assembles in the central Piazza. The event attracts a variety of rare collectible cars dating before 1968, including two-seaters, pre-war cars, which bravely face harsh weather conditions without a roof. Each car has its own story of restoration, where hours of hard work have brought them back to their original beauty. Spectators congregate behind barriers, as the motorists line up in the order of their race numbers. With a grand wave of an Italian flag, each car thunders down the cobbled streets of the central Piazza, as their adventure begins.

The drivers race through Val Di Sole, famously known as ‘The Sun Valley’, but at night the skies are alive with stars, illuminating the winding icy roads, fringed with snow. The group reaches their dinner destination, La Baracca, which overlooks the Tonale Pass ski slopes. At this halfway point, drivers refuel before tackling 20 challenging precision time trials on their return to Madonna di Campiglio for the night. This first leg is just an appetizer for the action to come.

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"The first day is an aesthetic treat for both pilots and spectators, as an assortment of the most beautiful vintage sports cars assembles in the central Piazza."

Among the highlights of the tour is crossing the Fedaia Pass, a scenic stretch featured in the 2003 film “Italian Job,” where drivers race alongside a magnificent lake reflecting the Marmolada, the highest point in the Dolomites. In the daylight, the scenery becomes more visible, as the cars drive past snow-dusted castle ruins, dormant Italian vineyards and quaint villages in the northern Italian countryside. Despite the route’s generous 12 Dolomite passes, the backdrop never disappoints, as the peaks change colours from hues of yellows and reds by day, to pink and violet by dusk, until they transform into black outlines by night.

After sunset, the cars begin to climb towards the famous Sella Ring, where four connected passes (Gardena, Pordoi, Sella, and Campolongo) encircle The Sella Group, a collection of flat-topped mountains in the Dolomites. Taking the Pordoi and Sella Passes, drivers experience a journey to unimaginable heights of 2230m, where the stars light up the snow-covered mountains. Towards the Chalet Gerard, drivers snake their way towards a well-earned dinner break. With a stunning view of the Sella Group peaks that rise above Selva Val Gardena, this charming boutique hotel is a must-see.

The final part of the rally ventures through both the Pinei and Mendola Pass and a series of time trials commence until the first car returns to the Madonna di Campiglio piazza, just after midnight. A warm meal and mulled wine await the drivers at their hotel as they exchange stories about their eventful day.

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"The distant sound of purring engines sets the tense atmosphere, as drivers prepare to tackle the circular, frozen track."

The anticipated final day of action takes place on the frozen lake of Madonna di Campiglio, where the two unclassified trophies will be decided. Those who took part in the Winter Marathon Rally in pre-war cars are eligible for the Porsche Trophy. In the second race, 32 cars are placed in a knockout challenge for the Eberhard trophy, sponsored by Swiss luxury watch company Eberhard & Co., official timekeeper and main sponsor.

The distant sound of purring engines sets the tense atmosphere, as drivers prepare to tackle the circular, frozen track. Spectators do not have to drive to enjoy the atmosphere. The event promises to be a fascinating spectacle of expertise and skill. One by one, drivers negotiate a thrilling balance between the grip of the snow and the slide of the ice, interrupting the buzzing atmosphere of Campiglio’s city centre. The competition is so fierce that in the 2021 edition, winners Massimo Bisi and Claudio Cattivelli completed the frozen circuit, in their 1963 Porsche 365 B Coupé, in just under a minute.

After the exhilarating events conclude, the competitors gather around the blue inflatable arch, anticipating the prize-giving ceremony. Spectators’ eyes are drawn to the regimented line of silver trophies shining in the Alpine sunlight. Organizer Roberto Vesco takes centre stage to announce the winners of each category. In the Eberhard Knockout and Winter Marathon Race, the winning teams are presented a luxury chronograph watch by Eberhard & Co.

Madonna di Campiglio, known as the ‘Pearl of the Dolomites’, has the highest concentration of four-superior star hotels of all of the Trentino mountain regions of Italy. Winter Marathon competitors are traditionally hosted in the Hotel Garnì Caminetto, with surrounding views of the entire idyllic, alpine village, littered with traditional wooden buildings, which are neatly coated with snow and garnished with fairy lights. The hotel’s central location is ideal for competitors as it is just a 5-minute walk from the race starting point, Piazza Brenta Alta, and positioned directly in front of the frozen lake of Madonna di Campliglio for the final day.

Classic car voyeurs, who don’t wish to participate in the race, may fill their day exploring one of the most fashionable ski resorts in Italy. The Italian style is renowned as the slopes are to be the runway for this year’s designer skiwear. The pedestrianised centre is full of sparkling jewellery shops and chic boutiques featuring Italian and international haute couture brands. They may adopt the Italian lifestyle with an evening ‘passeggia’ ritual, wandering through the cobbled streets of this idyllic alpine village.

The Winter Marathon brings together an international mix of people who all share a passion for classic cars, in the striking setting of the Dolomites. The event brings adrenaline-seeking drivers and the classic car voyeurs together in a community, to trade past and present stories while basking in the congenial company of fellow enthusiasts. Madonna di Campiglio, in all its exquisite beauty, provides the perfect base for this annual celebration of timeless style and craftsmanship.

Phoebe Nicoll

Phoebe Nicoll has a penchant for exploring the world and writing about the places and people she encounters. Her stories, covering over 30 countries, have included Concorde to Barbados, backpacking in Colombia, skiing in Europe, skydiving in New Zealand and volunteering in Tanzania and India.