By Georgina Beddows
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‘Welcome to the United Nations of Val Thorens’, the sign stretched high across the road reads. Now the winding climb is over, and the cleared tarmac has become layer upon layer of snow and ice. Stepping into the alpine bubble is slightly different for every ski resort. Zermatt welcomes you in by train. Avoriaz whisks you away from Morzine in a great big gondola. And knowing the clientele of Courchevel, it’s likely that you’ll arrive there via jet. But with only one main road and one entrance, nowhere quite feels like an alpine bubble as much as Val Thorens ski resort.

Val Thorens ski resort is in the heart of The Three Valleys within the Savoie region of France. Famed as the highest resort in Europe, Val Thorens has an altitude of 2,300m. Its five-star hotels, chalets, restaurants, and winter activities aren’t just high in luxury and adventure, they’re the highest in the Alps. And with ski summits reaching a colossal 3,200m, lack of snow is never a worry.

Val Thorens ski resort

In Val Thorens, nothing is ever really a worry. Some 30 years ago, jealous rivals argued that without a church the place wasn’t a true village, and thus could not take the honour as the highest resort. The ‘villagers’ simply rectified this by building a church in 1991. Despite this kerfuffle, ‘VT’, as locals call it, has been widely recognised since it was purpose built in 1971. Now, it has won ‘Best Ski Resort’ for seven out of the eight years that the World Ski Awards has been running.

Skiing

In addition to the accolade of the world’s ‘Best Ski Resort’ and the highest resort in Europe, Val Thorens can take pride in being a part of the world’s largest ski area. With over 600km of runs, The Three Valleys is the magnificent host of a mansion-sized party. Val Thorens ski resort sits just above its lower companion Les Menuires, whilst Meribel perches above Saint Martin de Belleville and Courchevel lies above La Tania. Dipping in and out of these resorts couldn’t be easier with 180 lifts at your disposal. Beginners can enjoy the greens and blues that make up half of the area. And the other half is red and black for those looking for more of a challenge.

Val Thorens ski resort

It’s not until you ski down into Meribel that you realise really how high Val Thorens is. It’s not so dramatic that the air feels less thin, or the alcohol has less of an effect. But it’s obvious for the nature-lovers who notice that Meribel beckons you in by its trees. Because Val Thorens is so high that it’s above the treeline, making it a sort of Arctic wonderland rather than a ski resort.

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"With over 600km of runs, The Three Valleys is the magnificent host of a mansion-sized party"

Activities and Après

To feel the true height of Val Thorens is to hurtle through the valleys – not on skis, but in some other form. If you ever feel like trying some activities away from conventional skiing, this resort has plenty. And not just off-piste skiing, ski touring, and ski jumping, but true alpine adrenaline rushes. Take a zip wire from one peak to another and whip across like a bird in the sky at 60 mph. Admire Mont Blanc whilst paragliding down the Bellevue valley. And after that, if you’re feeling like all you need is to be close to the ground, then dash through the snow on a husky dog sled or down the longest toboggan course in Europe.

Closer to solid ground again, VT has its very own ice circuit for those brave enough to try ice driving. Such a sport grasps full attention at the time of the Andros Trophy every year. In the highest race circuit in Europe, F1 drivers of the ice whip around Val Thorens in entirely electric-powered cars, all chasing a thrill. For an equally thrilling experience, VT invites you to view its frozen waterfall by taking an ice climbing trip. And most dramatic yet, if you’re daring enough, then climb to Lac de Lou and free dive under the lake’s ice to explore the world that lies, not above, but beneath the snow.

For those more interested in an ice-cold drink rather than an ice-cold dive, Val Thorens spoils their guests with a lively après ski scene. At around 3 o’clock, you’ll find skiers heading in only two directions: Bar 360 or La Folie Douce. This age-old competition for the best celebration on the mountain only makes each destination even better. For those wanting big brands and even bigger bottles of rosé, then make way to Folie. For those looking for headlining DJs, a little less flash, and fantastically far-reaching views across the valleys then head to 360.

Val Thorens ski resort

Val Thorens’ other après ski destinations that reign as top in The Three Valleys are Tango and Snesko. Whilst both entertain with live music, Tango has an air of elegance as both a hotel and a restaurant as well as a cocktail bar. Beyond Snesko, wander into The Frog, Le Monde, or the Irish pub O’Connell’s as they’re all located in the centre of the town.

Lodging

Hotel Altapura

The luxury of countless alpine activities and après is accompanied by just as many five-star hotels too. With its ski-in, ski-out location, Hotel Altapura couldn’t be more convenient. But it’s not just convenient, it’s cosy and cool too. The rooms sport soft fabrics and fur with warm wood and warm lighting. But downstairs, the design has a more artistic feel to it. A wall is made of old skis. The bar is an impressive assortment of 80s era ski boots. And it doesn’t stop there. The Pure Altitude Spa is scattered with remarkable ice blue glass blocks, granite, and birch – all reflecting the natural materials of the mountains.

Val Thorens ski resort

Hotel Pashmina

At Hotel Pashmina, guests may choose whether to cosy up in one of their rooms, suites, or chalet apartments. Or for more of an adventure, spend your nights in an Igloo pod on the hotel’s rooftop. After an afternoon at the hotel’s spa, come back to a wood-burning stove and a traditional Nordic bath. This geostructure is a little like a Wim Hof expedition sprinkled with, not just a five-star luxury, but all the stars in the sky above. At the hotel’s restaurant Les Explorateurs, stars continue to shine under the expertise of Michelin-star chef Josselin Jeanblanc and chief consultant Romuald Fassenet.

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"Delicacies are not afraid to be used in Val Thorens"

Restaurants

Chalet de la Marine

Jeanblanc and Fassenet act as a dynamic duo not just at Pashmina, but also at Val Thorens’ gourmet restaurant on the slopes. Brothers and natives to Val Thorens, Arnaud and Cedric Gorini, ensure that their restaurant Chalet de la Marine balances innocence with extravagance. The genius is that the fireplaces and fur blankets don’t detract from the fine dining food. From blue lobster Savoie charcuterie to lamb shoulder confit with oriental flavours, this restaurant is both local and international. But it’s nothing but tradition for dessert as just the memory of Chef Xavier Brignon’s pastries will leave you licking your lips longing for more.

Val Thorens ski resort
Photo Pascal Tournaire

Le Daimant Noir

Delicacies are not afraid to be used in Val Thorens. In the hotel Koh-I Nor, their Michelin-star restaurant is completely centred around the epicurean delight of black truffles. Le Daimant Noir or ‘the black diamond’, as it translates, is a luxury brasserie led by Chef Eric Samson. With floor-to-ceiling windows yet an understated atmosphere, the food matches the spirit. It is both impressively creative yet refined instead of ostentatious. Start with local snails in spinach leaves with wild garlic and move onto roasted duck fillet or marbled truffle scallops. In all of the lengthy menu’s dishes is a respect for aromatics and for mountain herbs and spices.

Village

Such herbs and spices can be bought at Val Thorens’ village market on Tuesdays and Thursdays. From locals to seasonaires to guests, and from saucisson to cheeses and from cashmere gloves to cashmere scarves, the market epitomises the confident and captivating lifestyle of Val Thorens ski resort.

As you leave the resort, you’ll find yourself feeling the familiarity of that single main road. But now you’re met with the words ‘Val Thorens Will Always Be Your Home’. And the buzz of anticipation has been replaced by a sharp pang of realisation. The realisation that you’re certainly not ready to leave the alpine bubble yet, and especially not this one.

Val Thorens ski resort

Georgina Beddows

The wonder of Georgina’s mind takes her around the world and, not far behind, her pen is sure to follow. By see-sawing between annual visits to Zermatt and annual ventures to somewhere new in the Alps, she’s covered a vast amount of what Europe skiing can offer. Nevertheless, she intends to continue straying off-piste to find more and more well-kept secrets.