By Donna Richardson
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At the foot of the majestic Mont Blanc mountain range, bordering Switzerland and Italy, traversed by two mountain streams, lies a regal resort. Skiing in Megève is a ski destination that was established in 1916 when the pastures of the French Rhone-Alps first caught the attention of the Baroness de Rothschild and flourished under her family’s influence during the roaring 1920s.

From these aristocratic roots, Megève ski resort grew, and it remains an elite retreat for ‘old money’ with an elegance that hails back to an era of glamour and noble prestige.

Megève is a perfect escape for glitterati who want that fairy-tale feel to their holiday. In the words of Ariane De Rothschild herself: “Megève is like a sleeping beauty”.  Today it remains an exclusive ski destination tailored to the wants of the modern beau monde skier traveller with diverse ski terrain that appeals to all types of skiers.

Megève ski destination

Fresh from the slopes, well-heeled guests have their pick of shopping at designer boutiques, sophisticated après-ski encounters, and an array of Michelin-starred restaurants. A Haute-Savoie village and  town square feels like Christmas all year round; with a tall evergreen tree decorated with Swarovski crystals and fairy lights that twinkle on the sparkling snow. Here, travellers step back in time as they wander the winding walking streets.

Putting the ski destination Megève on the Aristocratic Radar

Megève

At the very peak of alpine chic, Megève ski-resort was founded just over a century ago by the Baroness Noémie de Rothschild who wanted France to have its own St Moritz. She set about putting it on the map as a ski destination, building Palace des Neiges in 1921, and inviting King Albert I of Belgium to stay.

The French aristocracy soon followed, with the resort becoming a playground for Parisian high society who loved the social scene as much as skiing in Megève. In the fifties and sixties, Megève was the place to be seen by the likes of Hollywood stars Brigitte Bardot and Audrey Hepburn, plus French writer, artist, playwright and poet Jean Cocteau – who described it as ‘the 21st arrondissement of Paris’.

Megève Ski resort

This heritage manifests itself today in events such as the annual International Jazz Festival, the Megève Mont Blanc Cycling and the 2020 Freestyle skiing FIS World Cup. Visitors can watch classic polo tournaments on the snow and take part in the exhilarating sport of sled dog racing with huskies. At the Domaine du Mont d’Arbois golf resort, designed by three times British Open champion Sir Henry Cotton, guests can tee off en-piste all year round.

Sophisticated skiing on the slopes of Megève

Megève ski resort offers over 400km of pistes across three mountains, with Mont d’Arbois, Rochebrune and Le Jaillet sectors catering for skiers of all abilities. Situated at 1100m, just a 10 minute-walk from the medieval village, Skiing in Megève could not be simpler with over 102 lift connections to the slopes.

The largest links the Mont d’Arbois to St Gervais. On the other side, the Rochebrune ski area is exclusive to Megève, whilst the third, Le Jaillet, shares lifts with the villages of Combloux and La Giettaz while Mont d’Arbois and Rochebrune are connected at their bases by a cable-car.

Skiing in Megève

For those new to the sport, the top of Mont d’Arbois and Le Jaillet offer nursery slopes ideal for families who embrace the wide-open trails lined with trees. All with spectacular 360-degree views, half of the runs are green or blue, with beginner areas at valley level and each of the peaks, as well as some simple red routes. In the absence of a mechanical ski lift coaches take guests up the mountain.

Skiing in Megève

Mont d’Arbois, sitting at 1850m, has plenty of territory for intermediates to practice skiing safely, while presenting more than enough challenging red routes, as well as open bowls and bump fields. Catch the main gondola at Le Chamois in the centre of town to connect with the Rocharbois lift for the higher slopes.

Skiing

Expert skiers can take on tricky routes, and in fresh snow tackle the black slopes of Bridans and Voltigeurs that are so unknown that returning seasonaires discover them for the first time.

Meanwhile, a crown of sharp red and black pistes can be found in Côte 2000 in the Rochebrune sector, down to Le Giettaz in Le Jaillet and at the heights of the Mont Joly at 2350m. Here accomplished skiers can race down a labyrinth of uninhibited runs and gain prime access to off-piste virgin snow at Le Triangle, where a guide is required to navigate safely around the cliff edges.

Refined après-ski: Lobster, Caviar, Foie Gras and Champagne

Refined après-ski in Megève
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"The crème de la crème of ski destinations, Megève oozes opulence, tradition, and aristo-chic like no other."

Renowned for its sophisticated après-ski scene, Megève has elegant entertainment covered. With scores of gourmet restaurants, patisseries, live jazz clubs, and upmarket bistros to welcome a constant flow of  high-end skiers fresh off the slopes and clad in the latest designer apparel.

Dining in Megève

In Megève it is usual to have lobster for lunch washed down with champagne at Face Au Mont Blanc, while enjoying the splendid views of the mountain. And for sweet-toothed skiers, Le Compotoir du Pere Sotieu has a large selection of pastries freshly baked in store which seduce the senses as guests enter.

Dining in Megève

Refined après-ski afternoons at Le Tigrr, in town, which also has premises in St Tropez and Gordes, offer a sanctuary for the well-heeled, keeping them refreshed with cocktails and champagne and delicious sushi and the DJ mixes a steady beat of tunes encouraging them to dance.

Restaurants in Megève

Back in town at the historic Hotel Mont Blanc lies a great spot for lunch; Les Enfants Terribles. Named after Jean Cocteau’s novel and film, this chic-bistro delivers a mythic afternoon out for those with an appreciation for art and cultural history. Seated under a mural by Cocteau, guests can savour fine French cuisine like beef tenderloin and sole meunière.

Megève's restaurants

The hotel also has an oyster bar serving seafood and cold white wine, specifically aimed at an après-ski audience. Continue into the early evening as Le Georges champagne bar opens and takes on a regal air with attentive bartenders pouring glasses of Dom Pérignon, Pommery’s prestige cuvée, or Gosset cuvée celebris to taste alongside caviar and foie gras.

With wall-mounted stag antlers, antiques and sketches by Cocteau to the low beams etched with his quotes and polished wood surrounds, the grand rooms of the iconic Hotel Mont Blanc still remain cosy and provide a perfect place to relax, wrapped up in the warm-hued checked blankets and plaid throws.

Jazz in Megève

Later in the evening travellers head to the Club de Jazz Les Cinq Rues to unwind to the sound of soothing saxophones whilst lounging beside an open fire, sipping more cocktails and sampling world-class whiskeys. This is one of the oldest jazz clubs outside of Paris, a place where legends such as Stephane Grappelli, Memphis Slim and Bill Coleman once played.

Wine and Dine Michelin-style

Michelin-style

With a rich farming heritage Megève is a remarkable example of mountain gastronomy. The resort abounds with fine restaurants and five have eight Michelin stars between them while18 have featured in the Michelin guide.

Around 45 premium local farms supply fresh quality ingredients to the fine dining restaurants of Megève. Consequently, the region has attracted generations of world-leading and talented young chefs. There is no shortage of five-star hotels in town, so it is not surprising that many of Megève’s opulent retreats even have resident Michelin-starred chefs.

Gentlemen, be sure to pack a tuxedo and ladies, your best fur and cocktail gown as the dress code is black tie at many establishments.

Emmanuel Renaut of the Three Michelin Star Flocons de Sel Restaurant
Emmanuel Renaut of the Three Michelin Star Flocons de Sel Restaurant

Emmanuel Renaut is the only chef in Megève with three Michelin stars for his Flocons de Sel gourmet restaurant inside five-star Relais & Chateau hotel. Located on the top of the mountain, guests enjoy astounding views and can experience three-star Michelin food for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Michelin-style

The Flocons de Sel is a family-run restaurant where visitors are in for a first-class gastronomic journey.  The chef’s full discovery menu includes nine delectable courses with wonderful wine pairings. A fantasy of flavour awaits with the finest truffles accompanying dishes such as Kohlrabi risotto, veal and sabayon flavoured with vinegar and potato salad, milk fed lamb from Aveyron rubbed with fresh garlic and linden, onions and mushroom tart and a cheeseboard from the region. All dishes are served on exquisite china accompanied by elegant silver cutlery.

Stay in the five-star lap of luxury

Ski destinations

Four Seasons Megève

Four Seasons Megève

One of the finest examples of five-star hotel lodgings is the luxurious Four Seasons Megève – an opulent residence of timber and stone that builds on the legacy of the Rothschild family. All 55 rooms and the hotel itself are influenced by Ariane de Rothschild who selected antiques from over the world and handwoven fabrics from Bali.

In keeping with tradition, there’s swathes of marble, brass and dark wood and 120 abstract paintings by Thierry Bruet. The overall effect fuses alpine tradition with a pan-Asian and African vibe.

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"Steeped in history, mystical Megève balances century old traditions and regal residences with the modern world of designer shopping, lavish spas and elegant eateries."

At Four Seasons Megève guests can dine under the vaulted, wooden ceiling at La Dame De Pic – Le 1920, the hotels flagship restaurant. Here Anne-Sophie Pic, the world’s most Michelin starred female chef imagines a new culinary experience with savoyard produce and her signature quest for new, complex flavour.

Les Chalets du Mont D’Arbois, A Four Seasons retreat

Les Chalets Du Mont D'Arbois

At the other Four Seasons retreat, the five-star 42-room Les Chalets du Mont d’Arbois complex guests find a trio of wooden alpine lodges offering an inviting and intimate setting. All feature lavish décor and opulent furnishings in keeping with the Rothschild’s tastes. Chalet Noémie, the original family home built in 1920, is still the jewel in its crown, with Chalets Alice and Eve completing the triangle.

This regal residence’s hallmarks are its classic antiques and charming cuckoo clocks and the master suite has an open bathroom with a Jacuzzi allowing you to absorb the mountain elements.

Les Chalets Du Mont D'Arbois

Over at Le Chalets du Mont d’Arbois’ a Four Season’s retreat’s luxurious Bamford spa, indulge in a signature treatment that combines a body scrub with reflexology, shiatsu and pressure-point massage for some alone time or indulge in the intimacy of the couples’ suite. There is also a children’s spa, where little princesses can get their nails done and babies can be massaged to help with infant sleep and digestive disorders as well as promote relaxation.

Flocons de Sel, Relais et Chateaux

Flocons de Sel

Equally known for their three Michelin star restaurant as their five star boutique hotel is the Flocons de Sel.  The accommodations are decorated in alpine style and offer balcony views of the mountains and valleys below. Guests can pour themselves a drink and then sink into a deep soaking bathtub to unwind. Alternatively take a pamper at the hotel’s Turkish bath or full service spa.

Le M de Megève

Another in this quaint town’s bevy of luxury retreats is the Le M de Megève with 42 rooms decorated in a refined mountain style. The bolthole features a fine dining restauraunt helmed by two star-Michelin chef Edouard Loubet. For high tea, guest’s indulge in their famed waffles at teatime or in the evenings try their traditional ‘black hors’d’age’ herbal liquor specially brewed in the alpine region.

Les Fermes de Marie

The five star Les Fermes de Marie is a cluster of nine century-old rustic alpine farmhouses located 10-minutes away from town.  Apres ski features  the ‘best fondue in Megève at Le Restaurant Alpin, a reputation earned by winning a competition judged by chef Emmanuel Renaut in 2019. After a good day’s skiing, well heeled guests can relax their ski legs and toast their feet by the fire or head to the spa and fitness centre before cooling off in the pool.

A fairy-tale come true

Skiing

The crème de la crème of ski destinations, Megève oozes opulence and aristo-chic like no other. Steeped in history, medieval Megève balances centuries-old traditions and regal residences with the modern world of designer shopping, sumptuous spas and elegant eateries. Skiing in Megève is an unforgettable experience where you can find a happy ever after.

Donna Richardson

Donna’s passion as a travel writer comes from having lived in the Maldives as well as having travelled to exotic destinations such as the United Arab Emirates, Oman, and Sri Lanka. She continues to travel close to home visiting most of Europe, including skiing in Austria and France. Fascinated by travel and culture, there are still many places left on her list.