Nicknamed the Queen of the Dolomites, Cortina is a chic ski resort in Italy’s Dolomites. Over the years, there has been a regular influx of stars, including Frank Sinatra, Brigitte Bardot and Tina Turner. With a cache of glitz, glamour, and star power, the ski resort’s royal title appears to be well-deserved.
Popular with well-heeled Italians, European high society and celebrities for its understated luxury, Cortina is the height of sophistication. Both the incredibly scenic skiing and early evening passeggiata along Corso Italia vye for the glamorous visitors attention, as seeing and being seen is the highlight for many.
A two-hour drive from Venice airport, the less-visited and rugged Dolomites in Northern Italy offer a more authentic experience to skiing in the Alps. Family-run rifugios serve delicious regional specialities and the views of the surrounding UNESCO Natural World Heritage Site are spectacular. As one of the oldest ski resorts in Europe, Cortina’s grand Italian hotels date back to Victorian times, and in turn have attracted a number of Michelin-star restaurants.
Corso Italia is the main thoroughfare in Cortina, lined with luxury designers, boutiques and art galleries. At around 5pm each day, particularly at the weekend, the cobbled street is often busier than the slopes. The Italians parade the street in all their finery for the traditional evening passeggiata, before popping into a bar or restaurant for aperitivo in Piazza Venezia under the floodlit bell tower.
Non-skiers are just as well catered for as the skiers, with plenty of off-the-slope activities, the most popular tending to be shopping and unwinding in the spa. However, the Olympic ice skating rink is the perfect place to learn to glide gracefully. Stargazers should visit the Col Druscié planetarium and observatory where on a clear night you can spot thousands of diamonds in the sky. On Thursdays, you can linger over an aperitivo, followed by dinner under the stars at the Col Druscié restaurant.
Host to the Winter Olympics in 1956 – and set to host them again with Milan – Cortina has a fantastic variety of slopes. There are three unlinked ski areas – Tofana-Socrepes, Faloria-Cristallo and Cinque Torri-Lagazuoi – each with a distinct charm and best suited to intermediates. Within the larger Dolomiti Superski area, you can ski 1,200km of scenic routes that are often quiet. Make sure to stop for a photo at the top of Monte Cristallo and Tofana di Rozes, where there are sweeping views of the Ampezzo Valley. Beginners can find easier slopes on the Tofana side, and there are a great selection of private ski instructors that can help you get your ski legs.
From Lagazuoi, access the famed Sella Ronda loop, which has another 400km of intermediate skiing. As you ski what was once trenches and bunkers, keep eyes peeled for remnants from the First World War and later learn about the history at the Lagazuoi open air museum.
Generally there is reliable snow cover, with 95 percent of slopes covered by excellent snow making facilities. After a good snowfall, off-piste touring with a local guide is a great way to ski untouched powder around Cristallo. This is followed by a rustic mountain lunch at Rifugio Averau with views of the Marmolada glacier. Don’t miss the casunziei all’Ampezzana, a bowl of fresh pasta stuffed with beetroot and poppy seeds, and topped with bountiful Parmesan.
As many of Cortina’s visitors don’t ski from dawn till dusk, there are plenty of enticing cafés in the village. Pasticceria Lovat’s gorgeous cakes and outdoor seating make it one of the most popular haunts when the sun shines. Located on the popular Corso Italia, it’s the perfect spot for people watching and an espresso between shops.
Après ski is more of a civilised and sophisticated affair with smart wine bars and glitzy hotel bars. Head down into Enoteca’s wine cellar for flavourful grapes from every corner of the globe. Whether you opt for a Veneto Prosecco or a South Tyrolean red, each glass is paired with dried meat and cheese platters, and of course finished with a customary grappa. For an exciting twist on any cocktail, ask for Antonio Di Franco at the Hotel de la Poste’s bar. Run by the Maniago family for generations, it’s the regulars’ living room in Cortina.
After an aperitif, Tivoli is a low-key Michelin star restaurant in a rustic chalet. Here the chef creates interesting dishes with local produce and influences from the Dolomites. The menu changes based on the produce available, but you can expect variations of suckling pig, black truffle sauce and an indulgent gorgonzola fondue. Word on Corso Italia is that El Camineto makes some of the best fresh pasta dishes in Cortina. For something a little different, there’s spaghetti alla vodka, black cod pasta and a variety of venison and polenta dishes that are typical in the region.
You may recognise the Art Nouveau Cristallo Resort & Spa from the 1963 film The Pink Panther. So don’t be surprised if you’re brushing shoulders with celebrities and high society. Take your pick from the three fantastic restaurants, or book the private dining room where Chef Marco Pinelli will create a surprise menu.
Just a short 100m jaunt from the Corso Italia, Grand Hotel Savoia is an elegant choice, with a sumptuous spa, piano bar and a fine-dining restaurant. On the other hand, those looking for some privacy may prefer the LV01 Dolce Vita, LV02 Perla chalets that can be catered or just bed and breakfast depending on your preferences. Dine in the comfort of your own home for the week, unwind in the spa and take whatever you fancy from the fully-stocked wine cellar.
Cortina combines both fantastic skiing and a great deal of Italian style and flair. Indulge in a week or weekend of scenic skiing, fine dining, shopping and relaxing in the heart of the Italy’s Dolomites.