By Giuliana Santomauro
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The first thing you notice isn’t the cold or the pearly white snow reflecting against the bright sun. It isn’t that skiers are zooming past, with their skis scratching against the icy ground, or that there’s no way down except for gliding down the mountain. It’s the old farmhouse in the distance, one that looks like it hasn’t been occupied in decades, bustling with people. You can hear the booming of laughter echoing out into the cold air, the smell of a home cooked meal that makes you feel like you aren’t high in the Rothorn Mountains. From the outside, this converted farmhouse doesn’t look like much, but it’s actually one of the most famous ski restaurants in the world. Crowded with skiers at any time of day, mountainside restaurant Chez Vrony proves that ski cuisine can be more than just fried food and beer. Specializing in farm to table dining, this Swiss hotspot provides guests with a cozy environment with views of the Matterhorn Mountain while also delivering fresh and succulent dishes.

Although Chez Vrony is an internationally acclaimed restaurant, recommended by both Michelin and Gault Millau guides, it is only accessible by mountain. While most guests arrive by skiing down the Rothorn Mountain, there are other routes by paragliding and hiking. This sense of adventure is captured perfectly throughout this mountainside restaurant as well. Despite peak season in winter, visitors opt for outdoor dining, sitting on picnic benches lined with pillows and fur for warmth. For guests looking for an apres-ski experience, the patio is treated as an outdoor bar, with lounge chairs overlooking the Matterhorn Mountain as it pierces the sky like an iron hook.

Built in 1900, this infamous building started out as a farmhouse for the Julen family in a small town cushioned in the mountains above Zermatt. Within a few years, they converted it into a teahouse, serving skiers as they passed by.  But Chez Vrony became the hotspot it is today in 1962, when August Julen began a renovation to make this cozy cottage one of the best restaurants in Zermatt. Now owned by Vrony Julen, August’s daughter, and her husband Max, Chez Vrony is known for its quality cuisine, creating a Swiss twist on traditional dishes, in an environment that combines comfort and ski culture.

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"This sustainable cuisine uses locally sourced ingredients with foreign influences to bring simple dishes to the next level."

At Chez Vrony, most of the furniture is handcrafted by Vrony’s brother Heinz Julen, creating an intimate connection between restaurant and the family that started it. Heinz also painted some of the paintings that hang on the wooden walls, portraying familiar scenes that remind guests of distant memories. The transition from a modest farmhouse to a sensational restaurant at Chez Vrony embodies the history of the town as well. Originally a quiet village in the depths of a mountain, Zermatt Switzerland is now a renowned ski destination. Zermatt and Chez Vrony are interconnected, with this restaurant playing a part in the coming-of-age story that represents this town and its global recognition.

When guests walk inside, they instantly feel at home. With black leather accents and cowhide chairs, visitors don’t feel like they’re in the middle of the mountains, but in lively home full of all of their friends. A chandelier hangs from the ceiling, fashioned out of discarded pipes to give these materials a new life. Although this is a small step in reducing waste, Chez Vrony is dedicated to sustainability, especially in dining.

All of the meat and cheese at Chez Vrony is organic and produced from animals that are exclusively fed alpine grass. One of the specialties at Chez Vrony is cured meat, which is made onsite. Like the restaurant, recipes such as sausage and alpine cheese have been passed down from one generation to the next, consistently providing quality dishes for all guests to enjoy. This sustainable cuisine uses locally sourced ingredients with foreign influences to bring simple dishes to the next level.

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"Despite peak season in winter, visitors opt for outdoor dining, sitting on picnic benches lined with pillows and fur for warmth."

Most guests begin their meal with the charcuterie plate. Served on a wooden block, samples of speck, bresaola and other air-dried meats are paired with curls of cheese. Pickled onions, fig relish, and black bread are also on display, making this meal equally as delicious and aesthetic. With each bite, guests can taste the fresh and salty flavor of the meat unlike anything they’ve had before. Paired with fine wines, this starter embodies the concept of farm to table dining and awakens the pallet of every epicure.

The most popular meal on the menu is the Vrony Burger, a twist on the traditional hamburger. A small flag sits on top of the thick seeded bun, offering advice on how to eat this hearty burger. After cutting it into four pieces, and exposing the perfectly rare patty, guests are to dip the burger into a crème of horseradish and cherry tomatoes. The balance of spicy and sweet explode on the taste buds as a heavenly combination. Served with a side of coleslaw and spicy chips, the Vrony Burger is a must-try for every visitor looking to reenergize after a day of skiing.

After a meal, guests retreat to the Sunset Bar, where the apres-ski experience begins. This outdoor patio offers a serene view of the Matterhorn Mountain, all while skiers from nearby slopes shoot past. With wooden lounge chairs covered in pillows, visitors can lean back and relax with a cold drink with their loved ones or mingle with other skiers. Even from outside, familiar music can still be heard playing in the farmhouse, but the most inviting sound is the laughter, echoing out into the mountains. As guests feel the warm sun on their skin, it doesn’t feel like winter in the Alps. Instead, it’s an ideal temperature where everyone can come together, and in apres-ski fashion, celebrate the day.

As one of the best restaurants in Zermatt, Chez Vrony is quite literally worth the hike. With the world’s new focus on sustainability and ethical farming practices, this mountainside restaurant is steps ahead of its competitors. Producing its own meat and cheese onsite, Chez Vrony proves that ski cuisine can be fresh and delicious and still nourish guests after a day of skiing. Whether people are stopping by for a quick lunch or spending an afternoon at Chez Vrony apres-ski, they are sure to find a home away from home at this cozy farmhouse in the middle of the mountains.

Giuliana Santomauro

Giuliana Santomauro is an aspiring travel writer based in New York City. Always drawn to the excitement of new places, she moved from suburban New Jersey to a more fast-paced lifestyle. Previously, she worked in public relations and event planning, and is now using that experience to explore the world of travel writing.