By Amadea Tanner
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A ring of snowy peaks encircles the clear alpine basin of oblivion-blue. Their reflection on the water is a picture words can’t fully render, but those of Mark Twain describe it best: “As it lay there with the shadows of the mountains brilliantly photographed upon its still surface, I thought it must surely be the fairest picture the whole earth affords.”

Lake Tahoe

Nestled 6,224 feet up in the Sierra Nevadas, Lake Tahoe maintains a balmy winter temperature of 39 degrees, and consequently never freezes over. On steeper ski runs, the mountains meld into the lake, offering the illusion that you could simply ski straight off the slope and into the turquoise water. With sunshine, mild weather, and smiles all around, this snow-packed destination is still a testament to the highly-coveted California winter.

And while a white winterscape is the last thing migratory travelers might expect to find in America’s Golden State, the Lake Tahoe ski resorts champion snow that is powdery perfection.

Mark Twain stayed in Lake Tahoe in the 1860s, during a time when the lake was a rugged destination for a booming lumber industry, and a watering hole for hopefuls trying to strike silver. Though the lake is featured heavily in Twain’s semi-autobiographical work, Roughing It (1872), the development of ski resorts in the surrounding mountains since 1924 has ensured that visitors will never have to rough anything.

A century after Twain cherished this landscape as his alpine muse, the 1960 winter Olympic Games in Squaw Valley solidified the Lake Tahoe ski resorts as a winter sports destination, and they have become some of America’s best skiing ever since.

Hitting the Slopes

Skiing

Situated ⅔ in California and ⅓ in Nevada, Lake Tahoe is a skier’s paradise, no matter which mountain you choose. Six ski resorts circle the lake, and each enjoys 300 days of sunshine a year, with upwards of 350 inches of snow each winter.

Squaw Valley

Among the best known is Squaw Valley, after its Olympic hosting in 1960, and today it still maintains the reputation that raised Golden State skiing to the gold standard. With 170 runs and 450 inches of snow each year, this ski resort boasts the longest ski season in Lake Tahoe. The variable terrain features learning zones for beginners as high as some of the mountaintops, but the runs increase in aptitude with the altitude. The longest run spans 3.2 miles, and the dramatic alpine peaks still challenge Olympians.

Northstar

Northstar’s 100 runs ebb and flow with the scenery. Many are leisurely, winding white trails that take beginner and intermediate skiers down soft hills and sweeping valleys. It’s a serene, sylvan setting, and an evergreen preamble to the lakeside view upon bursting through the trees.

Heavenly

Heavenly, aptly named for the view, promises an adrenaline rush down 10,000 feet of elevation in the rapid descent from heaven to earth. 1,600 foot drops take the daring down double-black diamond canyons into jaw-dropping scenery. Skiers here can continue to forgo the straight and challenge the narrow with some of the most extreme tree skiing in North America. With 97 runs, Heavenly sprawls across the state line, giving skiers the choice between California or Nevada, though the most daring may choose both.

Kirkwood

From gentle, well-groomed trails to dramatic cliffside drops, Kirkwood’s 85 runs have something for everyone. Though there’s no lakeside view, powder hounds eagerly flock up to the ridgeline and down to the gullies to ski across some of the best snow in the world. The perpetually pristine powder year after year makes “the wood” a favorite among locals.

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"Though Lake Tahoe offers prime alpine skiing and an unparalleled winter vacation experience, it's the pristine setting that keeps guests coming back each season"

Après-Ski with some West Coast Flavour

Après-Ski is at its finest in South Lake Tahoe, which has a world-class reputation for celebrating well into the night.

A ride in the Heavenly gondola up to Tamarack Lodge for the Unbuckle Party is a popular end-of-day pastime. Here, Tamarack takes the après scene to the new height of 9,150 feet.

Guests party with a live DJ daily, and the Heavenly Angels dancers get the crowd on their feet on the weekends. The gondola ride back down by starlight is an incomparable view of the twinkling town by the shore of the moonlit lake.

Après-Ski

For those too worn-out to wander too far from base camp, Himmel Haus at the base of the mountain takes guests across the Atlantic as soon as they step through the door. A California twist on a traditional German bierhaus, this lively joint offers a variety of German and Belgian beers and wines, and Bavarian-inspired bites.

Après-Ski

On the Nevada state line, the après-ski scene lasts all night long, and Friday’s Station at the top floor of the Harrah’s Tower is the height of Tahoe luxury, in more ways than one. Guests at this upscale venue enjoy a high class view, and can choose from 1,000 varieties of wine in the wine display cellar. But if one casino isn’t enough, there’s three more along the casino corridor: Harvey’s, Montbleu, and the Hard Rock Hotel & Casino.

Haute Hotels

The Ritz-Carlton Lake Tahoe Ski Resort

The Ritz-Carlton Lake Tahoe

North Lake Tahoe has a more laid back ambiance, and The Ritz-Carlton Lake Tahoe crowns the Northstar resort as the place to stay. A rustically regal crescent with 360 degrees of breathtaking mountain views, The Ritz-Carlton is nestled midway up the mountain, and uses luxury accommodation to emulate the traditional camping experience.

The sprawling expanse of conjoined pointed rooftops gives the all-encompassing impression of the most epic treehouse. Rooms feature floor-to-ceiling windows, and a step onto any balcony is a venture into the treetops.

Young guests can enjoy indoor campouts in their hotel room, while other guests might seek full-bodied refreshment at the spa after a long day on the slopes. Nature pervades here, too, in the eucalyptus steam room and the massages that incorporate stones from Lake Tahoe itself. But to stay true to the camping ambiance, the ski resort’s signature experience is the Marshmology tradition.

There is no shortage of house-made s’mores ready for toasting at the “backyard” fire pit, supervised by two resident marshmologists who have perfected the art of marshmallow toasting.

The Landing Resort and Spa

The Landing Resort and Spa

In South Lake Tahoe, The Landing Resort and Spa looks  out across a lakeside view in Heavenly. Here modern taste meets timeless scenery, and cozy-chic meets intimate opulence. With heated floors and Keurig coffee makers in every room, guests can easily defrost after a day in the snow.

The Landing Resort and Spa

The relaxation continues at the spa, where guests find restorative wonders on heated treatment tables. The rejuvenation of a Deep Tissue or Hot Stone Massage leaves any patron ready for another full day on the slopes.

The Edgewood Tahoe Ski Resort

The Nevada side of the lake is also home to legendary accommodations, and the Edgewood Tahoe  is no exception. Here, modern design takes inspiration from the historic lodges of the American West. Lofty cathedral ceilings evoke a sense of awe transcended only by the view of the picture-perfect scenery from the floor-to-ceiling windows.

The Edgewood Tahoe ski resort

Here, to maintain the heightened connection between human and nature, an exclusive Smoky Quartz gemstone ritual at Spa Edgewood solidifies the link between body and earth. And for those who’ve had enough of relaxation, The Edgewood stands in close proximity to the casinos on the state line.

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"As it lay there with the shadows of the mountains brilliantly photographed upon its still surface, I thought it must surely be the fairest picture the whole earth affords. - Mark Twain "

World Class Cuisine

Whether it’s in the mountains or by the lakeshore, Tahoe will wine and dine visitors with world-class cuisine and an exceptional view.

Ciera Steak and Chophouse

Ciera Steak and Chophouse

Ciera Steak and Chophouse rests on Nevada’s state line in  the Montbleu Resort, Casino, and Spa, where this secluded spot holds the title of Lake Tahoe’s only Four Diamond Restaurant. Warm lighting and chic red décor welcome those with a hearty appetite, though the best spots in the house are the red-curtained booths at the back with the promise of complete privacy.

The menu would make any pescatarian proud with enticing entrées like Bronzed Mahi-Mahi and Gorgonzola and Pine Nut-crusted Chilean Seabass. But better-known favorites are the impressive array of succulent meat dishes, from the Pistachio-Crusted Rack of Lamb to the Wagyu Tomahawk Rib Steak. With an unparalleled array of steaks and chops to choose from, it’s no wonder Ciera is renowned for the “best steak in Tahoe.”

The Soule Domain

The Soule Domain

On the North side of the lake, The Soule Domain  offers an intimate upscale spot in a quaintly cozy cabin. The vision of creator and lifetime Lake Tahoe resident, Charlie Soule, “The Soule” has brought to life his dream of providing a distinctive fine dining experience in his hometown.

With subdued lighting, a crackling fire, and a tasteful jazz backdrop, this alpine hideaway offers guests an alluring ambiance for a culinary trip around the world. Favorite entrees incorporate Thai, Mexican, and Moroccan flavors, and dessert conjures confections from Paris or Rome.

Jimmy’s Restaurant at The Landing

Jimmy’s Restaurant at The Landing

Jimmy’s Restaurant at The Landing features regional California cuisine from locally-sourced ingredients, promising wood-fired flavor and the freshest seafood. Guests who reserve a private dining alcove can enjoy their own fireplace and a glamorous indoor campout with a meal by firelight.

Jimmy’s Restaurant at The Landing

Here in the heart of the High Sierras, there is enough skiing to last a lifetime. But should guests wish to experience the snow at a different speed, Tahoe offers a unique variety of winter activities off the ski slopes. Guests can take the scenic route around Squaw Valley in a four-person toboggan pulled by a team of huskies. With a maximum speed of 13.5 MPH, this dog-sledding adventure offers ample opportunity to appreciate the sprawling winterscape of snow-covered meadows.

For a faster ride, Lake Tahoe Snowmobiling on Mount Rose carries dauntless travelers across more than 100 miles of machine-groomed trails. The journey through aspen groves reaches summits of 9,000 feet with an ethereal view of the lake. But the sleigh rides in Heavenly are a favorite winter pastime. Able to accommodate groups as small as 2 and as large as 20, these private tours are narrated with stories, poems, and the ever-present opportunity for a sing-along.

Gentle blonde Belgian Drafts lead passengers through a magical setting of towering pines and sweeping snowscapes for an unforgettably exhilarating ride.

Skiing

Though Lake Tahoe offers prime alpine skiing and an unparalleled winter vacation experience, it’s the pristine setting that keeps guests coming back each season.The alpine air and sweeping scenery evoke their own natural allure. “The air up there in the clouds is very pure and fine, bracing and delicious,” Mark Twain concludes, “And why shouldn’t it be?—it is the same the angels breathe.”

Amadea Tanner

Amadea Tanner is a travel journalist who has found life as a writer to be a balance of two things: living an adventure that makes for a good story, and actually taking the time to write it all down. She’s wandered across three continents and many more islands, but until she’s seen the world from every possible angle, the adventure continues…