Having left behind boyfriends, husbands and children, the gaggle of girls hit the helicopter pad sporting pretty parkas, excess baggage and non-stop chatter as they prepared to invade the traditionally male-dominated enclave of a heli-skiing haven.

The majority were well-heeled women in their forties and fifties, Canadian, American, a Brit and an Argentinian. They had travelled to the helipad by bus from Calgary International Airport en route to Adamant Lodge in B.C.’s remote Selkirk Mountains. Upon meeting the group at the airport, Ellen Slaughter, a part-time heli-ski and heli-hiking host for CMH Heli-skiing, immediately dubbed them “Chicks in Choppers”. Solicitous from the outset, Ellen distributed women’s magazines and refreshments during the ride. But this group of strangers was not about to bury their noses in articles and fashion features, however glossy! With all the excitable chitchat, by the time they reached the heli-pad, they knew one another’s jobs, exercise regimens, children’s ages, relationship status, clothing and coifing preferences, and, more importantly, ski history. On arrival, other groups in the 44-person lodge thought they were old friends, but actually only two members of the group came together.

“It was a long-term dream for me to go in a helicopter, to ski in the lightest powder in the remote, highest mountains,” confirmed Silvana Contepomi, the 42-year-old Argentinean heli-fellow, who, after three years of failing to convince her husband to come, finally jumped on a plane from Buenos Aires alone. “I was a bit worried about the social side of it,” she admitted, never doubting her skiing abilities. Nevertheless, she joined in the banter and après-ski antics with gusto.

Since all-women groups are something of a rarity in male-dominated heli-skiing spheres, the group was given special treatment upon arrival at the lodge. While ‘Elegant Ellen’ facilitated firm female bonding, two mountain guides were assigned to guarantee everyone’s on-hill safety. Meanwhile, a second back-up masseuse had been flown in to tend to the abundance of screaming post-ski muscles.

High spirits dominated the lodge during the five-day sojourn. The few men who happened to ski along with the ladies during afternoon group reshuffles seemed to feel privileged to be allowed into this exclusive club, and were impressed by their skiing prowess. Skiing skills were definitely enhanced by warm April temperatures and the snow was so light that skiing was refreshingly easy. Often in sync, they scythed through virgin powder, putting at least 100 perfect snake-like tracks into each segment of the descent. Everyone followed the guides’ commands, whether it was traversing bottomless crevasses in sober single file or forging their own joyful tracks in wide open snow fields. They negotiated beguiling but challenging glades in twosomes, always stopping carefully above the guide as advised, and forming the closest knit heli-huddles ever seen as they waited for the copter to take off and land.

In fact, they were like the best-behaved school kids – except when it came to bathroom breaks. These, they declared, were emergencies rather than luxuries. Having trudged through thigh-deep snow one too many times in search of dubious tree-covered privacy, they decided instead to exploit their strength in numbers and take their toilette out in the open. The threat of a pants-down alfresco group pee effectively sent the embarrassed male guides scattering to the trees instead. From then on the ladies were able to employ these shock tactics whenever required.

Female heli-skiing guides are as rare as participants, but this garrulous group was lucky enough to have Alison Andrews of Canmore, Alta., who lead the girlie gang for two days. She used her decades of experience to forge tracks across immense glaciers, skillfully avoiding hidden crevasses, while long-suffering Jeff Bodnarchuk, the regular guide, offered motivation and instruction from the back of the pack. Thus, any slightly slower skiers became well acquainted with Jeff’s patience and humour.

The toughest physical challenge turned out to be stamina. Lasting seven or eight hours in untrammeled snow with very little rest after short chopper hops can be exhausting, especially five days in a row. Doreen Garner of Toronto, who booked the trip just two weeks before departure, bemoaned the fact that she had so little time to get into heli-skiing shape. With chances to return early to the lodge throughout the day, Alison urged the group to finish when their legs told them to, rather than trying to keep up with the heli-skiing Joneses. Some followed this advice, flying back to the beautiful base lodge mid afternoon, while others gamely pushed on, chalking up the most vertical.

Hilarity was an effective antidote to fear and self-doubt. Spearheaded by Whistler, B.C., realtor and mother of three Shauna O’Callaghan, the group indulged in spicy jokes and anecdotes between — and sometimes during — runs. Shauna re-enacted favourite scenes from British TV series Absolutely Fabulous as they descended down idyllic inclines, their peals of laughter threatening to overturn them. Boorish banter even helped defuse tension when diminishing visibility nearly prevented the chopper from retrieving them from the glacier at one point – none of them were dressed for a night in a makeshift igloo!

Fitness was definitely not delineated by age in a group that spanned 20- to 50-something. At 51, long-distance cyclist and mother of three, Charlotte Hannon of Calgary gave 33-year-old Brett Matik a run for her money, demonstrating daily her impressive strength and endurance. But Brett led the team in derring-do, flying off jumps and urging a faster pace. Brett, a businesswoman and mother of two from New Jersey, was accustomed to skiing with her brother. But, when contemplating heli-skiing alone, she was attracted to the women-only holiday in order to ski powder with other female experts. Younger still, 26-year-old Kate Siber of Colorado had anticipated more “hard-core” skiing, and was surprised by how many of the women were older and married with kids. Expecting a 30-something demographic and Type A career women, she acknowledged: “In hindsight, I think it was probably nicer to have a more diverse mix of women.” This helped her, she said, “learn how women deal with different stages of life.” In this case, that included childbirth nightmares, menopausal symptoms, empty-nesting trauma and midlife muffin tops.

Most of the group were somewhat incapacitated after the first day’s intense seven-hour ski. A morning stretch class had helped, but more serious therapy was required after crashing through crust in lower-level forests all afternoon. Massages and soothing outdoor spa soaks were very welcome balms offered by the luxurious lodge. Cross-country skiing and snowshoeing were available in case of inclement weather or overtired quads. But, with near-perfect flying conditions, most of the group didn’t need any distractions beyond the obligatory retail therapy in the ski shop. It was chock full of gear with subtle logos, ideal for flaunting heli achievements back home.

CMH Adamants Lodge

Born in 1959 from the vigour and determination of Canada’s early heli-ski pioneers, CMH Heli Skiing was the brainchild of Hans Gmoser. With a group of early European immigrants, he bootpacked his way around what had until then been considered wintry wastelands to forge a heli-ski domain that came to encompass 11 distinct areas and 12 luxe lodges dotted around a three million acre, high altitude wonderland. Of course, these days no-one needs to schlepp uphill to take advantage of the immense swathes of untrammeled powder that lodges like CMH Adamants access. Helicopters whisk guests around the virgin territory all day long, with a lavish lunch also eaten as a posh picnic out in the open.

All the CMH lodges have the luxury required to counter balance the ruggedness of this lofty experience. There’s nothing better than throwing yourself into the deluxe down duvets after an intense heli day for a well-earned afternoon nap before or after indulging in the daily hors d’oeuvre happy hour. Masseurs who live on site are there to soothe over-exerted muscles. And stretch sessions, sauna and outdoor hot tub complete the therapy. Dinners are casually fancy affairs with everyone mixing family-style at long tables headed up by heli guides and lodge staff all relishing the creative cuisine. Accomplished chefs are given artistic freedom to source the finest local ingredients while infusing meals with global flavours. Guests are encouraged to visit the kitchen to confer with chef and pastry chef to learn about the 30 local ranches that supply low impact, sustainable food. Wines, many from British Columbia, are paired with courses from well-stocked cellars.

Dinner is of course the perfect opportunity to share tales of downhill derring-do in the vast fields of powder, wide open glaciers and gargantuan but well-spaced glades. During the day guests ski in private groups of only four per copter, experiencing different areas within CMH Adamants’ 247,000 acres – depending on prevailing weather conditions – sometimes landing atop soaring peaks, other times amid beneficent bowls of snow, never re-skiing their own tracks and only ever seeing other CMH groups from afar. Although heli-skiing can sound daunting, this area is actually perfect for newbies who can book on Heli Intro courses. Skis provided by the lodges are the fattest floaters, helping everyone to scythe through the deep snow.

After spending the greater part of the day outdoors, guests gather at the panoramic windows of the cosy log-fired lodge to commune in comfort with nature. Outside is a magical mountainscape of endless unpeopled peaks and remote winter wilderness which is home to hardy moose, mountain goats, caribou, porcupines and camouflaged ptarmigans sporting their white winter plumage – all assiduously patrolled from above by golden and bald eagles. In spring it’s not uncommon to see bears from the chopper, foraging in the valleys after their long hibernation. In such a pristine setting, après ski is limited of course but games, passionate presentations and occasional musical performances courtesy of the staff keep everyone entertained. Although not many heli-skiers stay up late partying – they are too intent on getting a restorative rest ready to vanquish the vertical early next morning.

So, would they all heli-ski again? A resounding yes! Silvana wanted to bring her cautious husband next time; Brett planned to heli-ski with a mixed group in the near future. Donna and Doreen aimed to be fitter before embarking on another such adventure together. Kate hoped to heli en famille. Gayle planned to join a powder instruction week and playful Shauna said she was definitely game for more.