It’s all been said before: majestic, stunning, spectacular, grand…blah blah blah. Some of those words are so over-used in regard to superb ski-scapes that the wow factor is lost. But all these superlatives, and more, apply to Banff National Park as first-timers try to express their excitement about the quaint town surrounded by the most pristine wilderness. While the majority of visitors explore during summer, vacationing here with skis in tow is an extra luxury.

However, Banff’s journey as a premier destination didn’t start with skis or opulent hotels – it began with a four-year-old country desperately trying to link the Atlantic to the Pacific by rail.

In 1883 a few rail workers stumbled upon a crack in a mountain that lead them to a cave with soothing mineral-rich hot water that the Indigenous People had been using long before the railway came through.

William Cornelius Van Horne was the man overseeing the great rail odyssey and saw the potential in that pungent steamy water. With his iron fist thumping the table for emphasis, he demanded the leaders of the country reserve 16 km2 (10 square miles) for public property.

His classic line, “If we can’t export the scenery, we will import the tourists”, is in every history book in Canada. And his emphatic efforts created the national park system in Canada.

Jump ahead and Banff National Park now encompasses 6641 km2 of the rugged Canadian Rockies. There are over 1,400 kilometres of twisty trails to hike, bike or cross-country ski, three world-class ski resorts together offering over 7748 acres of skiable terrain accessed by two gondolas and 26 chairlifts all included in the SkiBig3 pass.

Annually the mountains are blanketed with over 30 feet (nine metres) of feather-light dry Canadian Rockies powder luring visitors from all over the globe.

Banff Sunshine Village is oh so natural

On a clear day – and there are many – guests at Banff Sunshine Village Ski resort stand at the top of almost any of the 12 lifts and lose themselves in the stunning topography. Peak after snowclad peak in every direction with not a hint of civilization stretching as far as the eye can see. And beneath your skis is fresh 100% natural snow – the only run that ever needs manmade help is the ‘ski out’ run back down to base.

With Sunshine’s unique location high on the Continental Divide, the dry, light and pillowy soft snow blankets every run. With so much snow, this ski area offers the longest non-glacial ski season in Canada starting in early November and extending past mid-May.

Sunshine offers 137 runs divided into 20% for beginners, 55% for intermediate skiers and 25% designated expert. Experts head over to the terrain on Goat’s Eye Mountain or tackle the infamous Delirium Dive off the Divide Express chair – patrolled in-bounds backcountry territory.

Intermediate skiers love the long wide runs circling Mount Standish. And beginners relish the runs off the Strawberry and Wawa chairlifts.

Insider tip: Stay at least one night at the Sunshine Mountain Lodge to experience the tranquillity of a high altitude night, gourmet dining, fresh tracks early next morning, plus free valet parking. Your luggage is whisked up the gondola by staff for more skiing, less hassle.

Norquay – moments from town

The steep double blacks off the Lone Pine chairlift from the top of Mount Norquay Ski Resort can be seen from almost any street in the town of Banff. It’s the original ski resort in the park dating back to the winter season of 1926 with the first lodge constructed in 1929. It was a mecca for ski jumping and still has the old start hut tucked into the trees.

Today, five lifts access 60 runs – 20% beginner, 36% intermediate, 16% expert. Interestingly, most of the difficult runs like Waterfall and Widowmaker are accessed off the Lone Pine chairlift, the favourite blue runs like Crazy Canuck are off the Mystic Express and, closest to the lovely log lodge, is the beginner area with gentle options like Ray’s Run and Zoomer.

A tube park and terrain park round out the snow activities. With Norquay so close to Banff it offers night skiing at weekends and, if guests arrive late in the day, they can get their legs into ski mode by taking advantage of the ‘last hour’ lift ticket.

Insider tip: Ski Mt Norquay on a powder day to get more deep snow per person off the Lone Pine Chairlift and combine it with a stop-off in the Cliffhouse Bistro where ‘tea house’ takes on a new meaning with tea-infused cocktails, dubbed ‘tea-tails’.

Named after a lake and a Princess – Lake Louise Ski Resort

The backcountry beyond the Lake Louise Ski Resort is credited with enticing the tourists of yore but today’s ski area encompassing over 4000 acres of diverse groomed and untouched terrain is what brings in the world’s skiers. Trails listed as 25% beginners, 45% intermediate and 30% advanced include 145 marked runs and beckoning back bowls accessed by ten lifts. And every one of those lifts offers options for every level of skiing ability.

New this season is a chairlift to the Summit which opens up an unspoilt playground to more people – the previous platter lift, lengthy and steep, was designated expert, deterring all but the most determined.

Showstoppers at ‘The Lake’ include Wiwaxy for beginners, Wolverine for intermediates and for the expert crowd, brand new terrain in the West Bowl. This is purposely left raw to give guests more of a backcountry experience – no grooming, no snowmaking, just authentic Canadian Rockies’ snow. For ‘insta’ opps, make sure to stop, admire, and photograph the view of the lake across the valley.

Insider Tip: If you’re not already staying at The Chateau Lake Louise, add a visit to the lake (named after Queen Victoria’s daughter Princess Louise Caroline Alberta) to experience one of the biggest natural skating rinks you’ll ever see. Surrounded by glaciers, it typically sports a skate-through ice mansion in the centre.

Posh Pillows

The Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel

The Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel is nicknamed ‘the castle in the Rockies’ for good reason. The grand hotel sits on a ridge above town featuring an imposing Scottish Baronial style architecture with luscious furnishings and a delightfully castle-like décor. Stained glass windows, stone floor and oak panelling add to the Celtic charm.

The exterior of the 757-room hotel is adorned with locally quarried Rundle stone. The art brings the outdoors in, heavily influenced by the mountain scapes outside the castle as well as interesting indigenous artifacts.

Accommodations range from cozy mountain view rooms to suites featuring grand parlours, large bedrooms and full bathrooms with snuggly robes waiting behind the bathroom door. Of course, if you are staying at ‘The Springs’, you’ll wrap yourself up in that robe as you head to arguably the finest spa in town.

Willow Springs offers all the usual spa and salon services as well as exclusive access to the mineral pool, the waterfall plunge pools, and the scenic outdoor hot tub overlooking the Bow River Valley. If you can’t bear to leave this sensuous spa, relax next to the fire in the co-ed resting lounge and let your dining option come to you.

The Rimrock Resort Hotel: views from every room

Any visitor to the Rimrock Resort Hotel will walk into their luxurious room and head directly to the window or deck. Almost every one of the 346 guest rooms and suites look out on vast views of Rundle Mountain, the Spray or Bow River Valleys.

Many of the suites offer that same vista from spacious bathrooms where you can relax in a tub and watch the sunset painting the mountains.

Each room is well appointed with either traditional or contemporary architectural lines and modern amenities. The Rimrock Spa offers therapies that combine ancient and present-day techniques to help you relax after a rigorous day on the slopes.

Stoneridge Mountain Resort

One of the newer properties in the Bow Valley Corridor is the Stoneridge Mountain Resort offering premiere luxury accommodations including one, two or three-bedroom condo-style suites. Bright large windows let the light pour in with spectacular views of the mountains or the courtyard hosting the heated pool and hot tubs.

The suites offer separate sitting and dining areas, hardwood and tile flooring, lots of room for entertaining or snuggling with loved ones in front of the fireplace. Located in the nearby town of Canmore, a favourite weekend retreat for Calgarians, it is close to all the Banff Lake Louise skiing but offers a local-community type of nightlife, shopping and entertainment.

Canadian Culinary Cuisine tops the day

For a humble little alpine town, Banff offers an exceptional array of food experiences – grab-n-go before heading to the slopes, to deliciously slow elegant dinners based on ingredients unique to Canadian cuisine.

The upscale Maple Leaf Grille right on Banff Avenue presents a menu loaded with Canadian influences in a log-cabin inspired interior. Choose from West Coast Steelhead trout, bison, beef or elk brought in from the best Alberta ranches or opt for the Vegan Gnocchi, loaded with fresh spinach and heirloom tomatoes sourced from greenhouses a few hours away.

To see the night lights of Banff illuminate the Bow Valley, venture to the bottom of Mt Norquay and reserve a table by the window at the Juniper Bistro. As the moon smiles over the mountains, dinner arrives and the feast begins. The bistro chefs win awards for their innovative garden-fresh salads and trend-setting takes on Canadian cuisine.

Looking for a steak is easy in Banff. Melissa’s Missteak has been satisfying cravings for over 30 years. A locals’ favourite is Melissa’s Mountain Stew that simmers all day. Served over a heap of fresh vegetables it leaves no guest hungry.

A cut above, though, is the 1888 Chop House in the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel. Here, Benchmark Farms from Lethbridge, Alberta supply top Alberta Beef and the menu offers extravagant fish dishes such as Manitoba Walleye served with red bean succotash.

Just a jaunt down the road in Canmore are two other local favourites. Although high-end, Crazyweed doesn’t discriminate – guests are welcome to stroll in wearing ski pants or dressed to impress. The mouthwatering menu has won the hearts of the locals right up to the Food Network and the Gold Medal Plate Culinary Competition. Try to decide on either the Grilled Thai Chicken, the towering Crazyweed or Black Bean Burgers.

Nearby Sage Bistro is a big rustic log building offering contemporary and sophisticated dining experiences surrounded by more of the Canadian Rockies you are falling in love with. Start the meal with a bottle of wine from the eclectic selection of over 180 wines from around the world resting in the wine cellar. Pair it with the Alberta Pork Tenderloin or the Red Wine & Rosemary Braised Lamb Shank.

Quick bites and nightlife

Can’t go without mentioning two places that are fun for quick bites. Visitors will want to combine a ride up the famous Sulphur Mountain gondola with a lunch or light dinner at the mountain top Sky Bistro.

The view from the top is fantastic. Over on main street, among the fur shops and ski boutiques, is a quaint little building with a pointy peaked roof that looks like a Hansel and Gretel house nestled incongruously in the main shopping stretch.

The Grizzly House is very casual with wood carvings and totem poles interspersed randomly with bearskin rugs and buffalo heads. The menu is almost as quirky with fondue, steak and seafood crowding the tables.

For nightlife, main street and the arteries off are jam-packed with places to go. Start the evening at the Banff Ave Brewing Company, walk a few doors down and resume the jollity with live music in Wild Bills legendary wild west saloon, or the Park Distillery to sample their latest gin, vodka or rye cocktail. Finally end up at the Magpie and Stump for late night tacos and tequila.

Over in Canmore, the Sensory Restaurant, Tavern 1883, the Grizzly Paw and the Drake Pub all offer local quaffs, lovely views, and good times in that mountain atmosphere visitors and locals relish.

The Must Do list

A wander along Banff Avenue is not complete without stopping in at Monod Sports – family business behind Tatum Monod’s glittering free-skiing career. If you forgot your gloves – or worse, your skis – or just need a new après ski sweater, Monod’s has been the place in Banff to find the best selection since 1947. Dash across the street to The Banff Candy Store for fresh chocolates or retro candy like cinnamon hearts, sponge toffee and Pink Elephant Popcorn.

If time permits, add a walk into the Cave and Basin National Historic Site to see where the beautiful town and national park began. Take a refreshing dip in the historic Upper Hot Springs. Lean back, tip your face to the sky, and let snowflakes melt on that supreme smile of Ski Big3 satisfaction. Tomorrow is bound to be another banner day on the slopes.