Even the diehard powder hounds who jockey to lunge off the first gondola pause and do a collective “Whoa” before pushing off for first tracks. The view from the ridges and peaks of Lake Louise Ski Resort is one of the most spectacular in the Rockies.

Looking across the valley, the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise on the frozen shores of Lake Louise is a dollhouse under the snow-clad peaks and glaciers of Mount Temple, Fairview and Victoria. While some skiers linger for photos, others take the plunge in almost every direction. With trails on four mountain faces, there is ample terrain to cover.

Lake Louise Ski Resort is proudly one of the three alpine resorts in Banff National Park in Alberta, Canada. Calgary, the closest city with an international airport is two hours east. While Calgarians usually do a daily pilgrimage from home, the national and international visitors enjoy the comforts of luxury accommodations, excellent cuisine, and activities in the village of Lake Louise.

Back in the “old days,” as in the late 1800s, when travelling by train was the hip way for the European elite to experience the Canadian wilds, the village now known as Lake Louise was the ultimate destination.

For years people would come to stand in awe of the breathtaking scenes of giant glaciers, emerald green lakes and deep powdery snow. As the years rolled into the next century, Swiss guides introduced the hardiest travellers to ski mountaineering. Long wooden skis, leather boots and heavy woolen clothes were the gear of the day.

By 1931, Skoki Lodge some 11 km from the Lake Louise Ski Resort boundary was visited by many of the wealthiest and most refined clientele from Europe. The bountiful snow they were experiencing was so good that it just had to be shared. But the dilemma was how to accommodate mainstream travellers who couldn’t embrace the arduous efforts to get to Skoki Lodge.

The local Banff ski club, together with some entrepreneurial Europeans, went to work to create a Canadian version of the skiing meccas of Europe. In 1938 the Temple Lodge was constructed for the ski mountaineers to use. In 1957 a gondola started taking guests to the top of Whitehorn Mountain and, by 1971, the Lake Louise Ski Resort as we know it was established.

Today’s resort is over 4000 acres of diverse terrain with options for every ability off every lift. Trails are listed as 25% for beginners, 45% intermediate and 30% as advanced terrain. At least 145 marked runs and back bowls are accessed by ten lifts.

The top elevation is 2637 metres (8650 feet) with a vertical rise of 991 metres (3250 feet) with the longest run being an easy 8-kilometre (5 mile) glide from the back side. The average winter will see at least 4.5 metres of dry fluffy powder float onto the runs.

On that first gondola ride in the morning, ask a local for the secret stash of the day. Like a good Canadian, they are eager to share, and will most likely lead you to some amazing terrain.

One local tip worth heeding is to ski the back bowls in the morning using the Ptarmigan chair, zip over to the trails off Larch Express in mid-day and when your legs are getting tired, head to the sun-softened trails on the front slopes for the afternoon.

Lake Louise is gentle on the beginners but doesn’t leave them to do endless loops on a T-bar tucked in the trees. Beginners will enjoy the long and wide groomed routes from the top all the way to the base on trails like Wiwaxy.

Pushing off to enjoy the backside they will carve along the Saddleback Trail gently rolling above the trees offering ample opportunities to stop and watch the daredevils fly down the chutes and bowls from above. Over off the Larch Express, while the experts seek out the chutes, they will master their turns on Lookout.

Intermediate skiers are catered to at Lake Louise with close to half the runs dedicated to them.  Guests riding the Larch Express will be enticed by a challenging mix of intermediate trails. Some of the favourites are Wolverine and Bobcat.

Spending the afternoon on the front side, guests can test their mettle on the trails that challenge the world’s best. The Lake Louise Audi FIS Ski World Cup races are held on those runs annually in November and December. If the trees could talk they’d have plenty of tales to tell over in the glades off Race Pitch and Eagle Flight.

Did someone say they liked skiing chutes and bowls? You are in luck. Dropping off the ridge at almost any point along the north face has you challenged by runs above the treeline like Peyto’s Pitch and The Beast. Shake up your day with some steep tree trails under the Ptarmigan chair.

Remember those helpful locals you met in the gondola? Ask them how to find Tower Twelve and Lookout Chutes – you won’t be disappointed with the short yet challenging plunges.

Lake Louise is excited to open new inbounds terrain in the West Bowl on the front face offering almost 500 acres of glades, chutes and steep tree runs to excite the bolder enthusiast. It is purposely being left rather raw to give guests more of a back-country experience. No grooming, no snowmaking, just authentic Canadian Rockies snow.

Take a trek to where it all started: Skoki Lodge

Winter devotees wanting the true backcountry lodge experience will want to visit Skoki Lodge that to this day still welcomes guests. It’s up to you to pack in your personal items on the cross-country ski journey but when you get there, the spread of delicious food will make the effort worth it.

If you’ve brought guests who don’t ski or snowboard there is a bounty of other activities at Lake Louise. Cross-country trails are accessed from the lodge, guided snowshoe tours trek to breathtaking views and the tube park is always a hit.

Après ski on the slopes

Dining or grabbing a snack at the ski resort is easy with restaurants, cafeterias, gazebos and decks to pull up a chair. The Lodge of Ten Peaks at the base offers quick grab-n-go, sushi, or fine dining. On the slopes, check out the rustic charm of the old Temple Lodge on the backside for a fast lunch, or head upstairs to Sawyer’s Nook for cheese fondue or the famous house made Sawyer’s Burger.

Settle into a deck chair at mid-mountain Whitehorn Bistro and admire the sweeping panoramic view. If its deep winter, après ski has to be next to the fire in the Powderkeg Lounge or over nachos and beer at the Bier Stube in The Lodge of Ten Peaks. But, come springtime, the deck at the Kokanee Kabin is the place to work on the goggle tan while enjoying a pint and listening to live music.

 Chalets and Chateaus: Staying at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise

Chalets were built along the shores of the emerald green Lake Louise in the late 1800s for those rail travellers to leisurely enjoy the solitude of the mountains. Over the years, the chalets turned into a full-on chateau with turrets and architectural details that capture the immensity of the surrounding mountains. Only in 1982 was the five-star Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise winterized to host snow lovers from around the world.

Today travellers walk into a massive greeting hall richly adorned with tapestries, statues and exquisite mountain landscape painting. Guest rooms are well-appointed while the Fairmont Gold rooms offer added indulgences.

Large windows in every room offers breath-taking views of the lake and the surrounding mountains. Guests are invited to walk the trail along the shore or cosy up with loved ones and take a ride on the horse drawn carriage or dog sled. A signature experience is skating on the frozen lake itself.

If a bit of pampering is what you desire, the Spa is a tranquil oasis offering whole body wellness – everything from foot massage to luxurious body scrubs. The indoor aquatic centre incorporates steam rooms, whirlpools and aquatic pools.

Your dining options at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise are vast with on-site choices ranging from the Chateau Deli to fine dining in the Fairview Restaurant. Reserve a table in the iconic Lakeview Lounge next to the window and enjoy simple pleasures like Nova Scotia lobster mac and cheese or a fine cut of Alberta beef while you watch the shadows move across the Victoria glacier. It truly is a must-do of any visit.

Log cabins at their finest: The Post Hotel

The Post Hotel in the village of Lake Louise with its brilliant red roof and hand-hewn walls built with logs sourced from the headwaters of the Bow River has welcomed refined travellers since the 1940s. The lobby is lit with antler chandeliers, rich wood walls are adorned with classic art work, and the Riverstone fireplaces host massive trophies of moose, bison and elk.

Owners and brothers, Andre and George Schwarz have a profound love and understanding of the needs of their guests and provide exceptional accommodations with European finesse.

The property includes 60 rooms, 29 suites and five cabins. Guests will enjoy the Temple Mountain Spa offering many options for relaxation and hot and cold pools to help loosen those tired legs.

Ask anyone and they will insist you dine at the Post Hotel. The kitchen is crowded with the talented team of internationally trained chefs who create award winning menus. Settle in and slowly enjoy a four or six-course meal based on rich flavours influenced by the Canadian Rockies.

Stay long enough to enjoy an evening at the Fondue Stubli for traditional Swiss-style fondue. And, don’t forget to visit and order a bottle of wine from the wine cellar boasting almost 30,000 bottles of wine.

Visitors to the village, hotels, and the ski resort at Lake Louise will find themselves falling in love with the measured pace of the community. It’s quaint, unhurried, and has an unpretentious attitude. Yet, the stunning landscape, the exceptional snow, the luxurious accommodations, and fine cuisine provide an over-the-top vacation.